My airbrush saga just gets curiouser and curiouser. Monday night I decided my left arm was doing well enough that I could tolerate a short round of airbrushing. The arm did fine, but I'm not sure my blood pressure was within proper limits the whole time.
Same old problems; the brush would not push paint through in sufficient quantities. Pure thinner seemed to go through well enough, but add some paint and things just stopped. If I thinned it to the point that it would move through the airbrush, then it was too thin to add any tint whatsoever to the target model.
Out of desperation, I found a workaround, but it is the sort that just emphasizes the problems you are having. If I loosen the needle chucking nut and manually pull the needle back a tad, paint comes out in a strong stream. It works well enough when you are painting large areas, but as you can imagine, you have to be extremely careful not to apply the paint too thickly or allow it to pool or run. And this technique wouldn't work if the task at hand was fine Luftwaffe mottling. But it does seem to get the paint on to the model more efficiently. This paragraph probably contains the root cause of my issues, but I am just not enough of an airbrush engineer to know what is going on. I'm like that with cars too: if it runs, great. If it's broke, find someone to fix it.
But I did get a definite color coat of Middle Stone on one of the Eurofighters and the desert Hurricane. And I got sufficient matte sealer coats on three completions, which will be debuting here over the next few days.
Next up in terms of paint is the surface coat of the Middle Stone. My definition of that is a relatively well thinned coat meant to restore the surface level after a bit of fine-grade sandpaper buffing. It's an extra step that can be eliminated if you get a nice smooth gloss first coat, but that doesn't seem to be where I'm at right now. Plus I have lower surfaces on a whif Messerschmitt P-1106 and uppers on a Fi-103X that need the same sort of treatment.